(29.01.2026)
Text and photos: Harald Röker
Harald Röker bolting at the Scogliera di Salinella
Already 20 years went by since sport climbing found it's way to San Vito lo Capo on a larger scale. Back then with Josef Gstöttenmayr, Daniele Arena, Scott and Jim Titt leading the way, a bit later also Karsten Oelze, Harald Röker and Augusto Rossi, hundreds of beautiful routes in almost all grades have been developed within a few years.
By now due to the rough salty sea climate some sectors needed re-bolting. Since 2017 Daniele Arena re-bolted already many sectors and routes, especially his own older climbs, with new material also sea-condition-resistant. Particularly there are to be named the sectors CROWN OF ARAGON (duplex bolt-in bolts), BUNKER HAUPTWAND (titanium glue-in bolts), CANALINO (titanium glue-in bolts), GROTTA DELLA PALMA (titanium glue-in bolts), WHITE WALL (titanium glue-in bolts).
 New titanium bolt in the sector WHITE WALL, above the old hole of the previous bolt |
Re-bolting campaign 2025Now, end of 2024 Marco Peralta from Timbuktu Hostel (external link) brought into beeing a fund-raising campaign for the further re-bolting of the area. Due to the awesome support of the climbing community by numerous donations the re-bolting of some important sectors could be started already in spring 2025. In the first instance almost all routes in the sector CALA MANCINA - GROTTA (GARE) and all routes in the GROTTA DEI SANTI have been re-bolted. In both sectors particularly critical bolts had been used which were not safe any more in this salty conditions. Especially for devotees of a bit more difficult routes now again there are also some safe-to-climb lines in the 8th french grade to be found. Also in the sector CALA MANCINA almost all routes have been re-bolted, predominantly in the lower and middle grades. In all these sectors titanium bolt-in bolts have been used. Since autumn 2025 the focus was on particular routes with known problems such as not fully solid anchors or missing bolts. Spread all over the area such routes specifically have been restored into a safe state. |
 Titanium glue-in bolt in the sector CANALINO with clipped express |
Tips for sectors with routes re-bolted in the years 2017-2025: • WHITE WALL (Titanium: 6a - 7c+) |
Furthermore in the climbing guidebook Sicily-Rock (external link) at each route is listed which type of bolt and which material is used (if it could be figured out). There do exist many sectors which have been bolted already during development with bolts made from duplex-steel or A4 (AISI 316 or AISI 316L). Also many sectors and particularly critical routes have been re-bolted with better material in the recent past.
Already planned is the re-bolting of the sector CAMPO BASE, which could take place already in February 2026. More routes in the pipeline are located at GROTTA DEL CAVALLO, also there old A2-glue-in bolts, already more than 15 years old, are supposed to be replaced with titanium bolts.
If you would like to support the further re-bolting of the area, please find more information here: "Re-bolting campaign for the crags around San Vito lo Capo"
The proper climbing guidebook for San Vito lo Capo Including |
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